Wooden windows manufactured by CDM possess many advantages that make their use easy and pleasant. They are equipped with high-class multi-point locking fittings, heat-insulating glazing set, acrylic varnish film with increased resistance to the adverse effects of weather conditions. The joinery should be assembled by specialized assembly teams with appropriate experience and expertise. Below, we have presented the basic stages of joinery assembly to ensure the efficient and correct performance of assembly works:

• checking and preparing the wall opening,
• setting the window in the opening,
• fixing the frame in the wall,
• making insulation around the frame,
• adjustment of the fittings.

1. Checking and preparing the wall opening

Each built-in window should be inserted into a ready-made opening in the wall. It is unacceptable to erect a wall around the window frame, and to use the window frame as an element of the formwork to make the wall lintel above the window. As a result of such activity, the window will be tightly set, without any spacing and proper insulation, and what is worse, the stress from the wall structure will be transferred to the window, resulting in its malfunction. The wall opening should therefore be 3-5 cm wider than the width of the frame (1-3 cm on each side) and 5-8 cm higher (1-2 cm from the top and 1-6 cm from the bottom). The angles of the opening should be 90°, and the diagonals should not differ by more than 1 cm, which can be checked, for example, with a tape or a string. The wall opening that is larger than recommended, results in an unreasonable need to use more insulating material, and if the angles of the wall opening are not straight, this may cause the frame to “skew”. All internal surfaces of the opening should be smooth, without cavities, and the internal insulation layer should protrude beyond the wall surface in the jambs. The bottom surface of the opening should be uniform, even, made of a layer of bound material on which the window can be supported in a stable manner.

2. Setting the window in the opening

In order to facilitate the movement of the window during installation, the sashes should be removed and only the frame should be used. For the depth of setting the window and its threshold in the wall opening, it is important that the dew point (10°C) isotherm for the wall passes through the window. Only then, the condensation of water vapour on the inside of the window will be avoided. In a multi-layer wall, insulated with mineral wool or styrofoam, this isotherm is usually limited by a layer of insulating material, therefore a window should be installed at its height (or actually at the depth of the opening). After setting the frame on the threshold, use a spirit level to align the frame sides horizontally and vertically and to wedge them in the correct position with distance and support wedges (Fig. 3). In plastered frames, it is best advised to break the continuity between the external and internal plaster with an insulation layer.

3. Fixing the frame in the wall.

CDM recommends fixing the windows with system anchors used for the installation of wooden windows (Fig. 1). Under no circumstances should PVC window installation anchors be used. The anchors are attached to the frame before placing it in the opening, at a distance of 15 cm from each corner, the distance between the neighbouring anchors should not exceed 700 mm (Fig. 2). The anchors should be mounted in the frame with 3.5 × 40 mm wood screws. After the initial setting and wedging of the frame, the anchors are mounted in the wall using expansion bolts. It should be remembered that each anchor should be attached to the wall with two expansion bolts, except when the anchor is mounted in a reinforced concrete wall; the use of one expansion bolt is allowed in such a case.

4. Insulation of the window

A wooden window is characterised by thermal insulation of Uw = 0.9–1.6 and is highly water and wind proof. In order to maintain these parameters for the entire opening, the space between the frame and the wall should be sealed in such a way that it is resistant to the penetration of cold and water. For this purpose, polyurethane assembly foams are currently most often used, which swell, when applied in the space between the frame and the wall, sealing the space completely. In such a case, there is a risk that and excessive amount of foam in the space, unable to find an exit, may push the frame away from the wall, which will be manifested as a bulge. To prevent this, first of all, one should use low-expansion polyurethane foams, and additionally, when sealing the balcony door, a buttress should be inserted in the middle of the door height to not damage the window frame. However, one should always remember that the fitting foam is only an insulating material and it is unacceptable to use it as the only material fixing the window to the wall. The insulating layer around the frame should be uniform, without gaps, and of the same thickness. On the outside, along the gap, a waterproofing layer of insulation should also be made, made with particular diligence along the bottom frame, corners and the contact points with the flashing. Durable plastic putties, e.g. silicone, constitute the material for such insulation. Once the polyurethane foam has hardened, remove the distance wedges and leave the support wedges. The vertical and horizontal alignment as well as the diagonals of the window frame should be checked and the openings created by the removed wedges should be filled with polyurethane foam.

To avoid soiling of the window with polyurethane foam, CDM recommends wrapping the door frame with paper tape. Please note that it must be a special tape for covering acrylic surfaces, which must be removed immediately after sealing the window with polyurethane foam. In order to improve the thermal insulation parameters, it is recommended to use an additional seal in the form of a vapour-proof tape on the inside and a vapour-permeable tape on the outside.

5. Adjustment of the fittings

CDM windows are equipped with multi-point locking fittings that lock the window sashes in several places around their entire perimeter and enable the control of opening and tilting the window with one handle. The multi-point locking fitting is a very precise mechanism, however, it has a tolerance of a few millimetres as regards their adjustment in several directions. The fittings applied by the CDM company are adjusted with an Allen key in accordance with the window adjustment manual. Each user is able to adjust the windows independently by following in the manual. Also, having inserted the sashes into the mounted frame, the installer should check the correct operation of the window, lubricate the fitting components in the places indicated in the manual, and, if necessary, make adjustments. The window sashes should open and tilt smoothly, without any friction or resistance, and the clinging of the sash to the frame should be the same around the entire perimeter.

6. Finishing works

An authorized assembly team is responsible not only for installing and adjusting the window, but also for leaving the assembly place in order. Where the plaster removed for anchors has been damaged the installer should be able to reapply it. During the installation, it should be remembered that the final element of the new window is the sill installed underneath it, inclined away from the window. From the outside, it is necessary to remember about the flashing placed properly under the window gutter drip, to protect the wall from leakage. Masking strips around the window, used outside and inside of the rooms constitute an aesthetic element.

The materials and tools that are required include:
1. One-component low-expansion polyurethane foam.
2. Self-adhesive paper tape for acrylic surfaces.
3. Spirit level.
4. Hammer drill.
5. Assembly anchors.
6. Wedges.
7. Tools for adjusting windows or doors.
8. Wood screws and expansion bolts.
9. Optionally, a vapour-proof and vapour-permeable tape.

7. Installation of the HS sliding window

In the HS lift and slide windows, the entire weight of the sashes is transferred to the threshold. Due to the large weight of the sashes (even up to 400 kg), the appropriate setting of the threshold is a necessary requirement for the proper functioning of the window throughout its lifetime.

The installation should begin with:

a. Screwing the construction connectors along the entire perimeter of the window.
The spacing of the connectors should be made in accordance with the drawing no. 6. It is important that the building connector is made of galvanized metal plate with a minimum thickness of 2 mm and the dimensions of 40×250 mm.

b. Levelling and anchoring of the threshold at the assumed depth in the floor.
Along the entire width of the window and in accordance with drawing no. 7, the threshold should be supported by a self-levelling compound or at points made of hard non-absorbent materials, e.g. waterproof impregnated plywood. The elements for point support should have a minimum size of 150×100 mm and the appropriate thickness, and their arrangement should be made in accordance with the drawing no. 8. Before anchoring the threshold, it is absolutely necessary to check its straightness and horizontal alignment by applying a long spirit level. The threshold must not be skewed or out of the horizontal alignment.

c. Setting the window geometry.
Using 2 spacers placed at diagonals of the door, the correct geometry (rectangularity) of the entire structure should be set. The vertical position of the window perpendicular to the plane of the glass should also be checked.

d. Fixing the window to the wall.
The window should be mounted in accordance with the principles described in point 3.

e. Insulation of the window.
The window insulation should be carried out in accordance with the principles described in point 4. Figure 9 demonstrates an example of the installation of a window with a threshold supported on a self-levelling compound, and Figure 10 shows an example of an installation with a point-supported threshold.

We recommend the use of systemic thermal plates, which are available in the dimensions of 100 and 150 mm. The plates can be folded together or cut to the desired height. Systemic thermal plates can be replaced with a plate made of impregnated wood.

Detailed company guidelines for the installation of frames are available in the download section.

Care and maintenance of wooden windows, doors and shutters Both transparent and opaque coating systems provide protection against the damaging effects of weather conditions. Twice a year (preferably before the summer and winter), using a mild detergent and water, the surface of wooden windows should be thoroughly cleaned of dust, traces of insects and other contaminants. Cleaning should be done not only for aesthetic reasons, but also so that the dirt does not damage the paint coating (this type of contamination can cause the appearance of green algae and fungi). After cleaning, one should apply care emulsion to the frames. Notice! Most window cleaning products contain ammonium chloride and its residue must be removed after the application, preferably with clean water. Wipe the conditioned elements dry with a soft cloth. We recommend the use of the following specialised products for cleaning and caring for the varnish coating. Cleaning product: Teknoclean 1956-00 – effectively removes dirt, grease and other contaminants from wooden surfaces. Packaging: 1.0 L. Care product: Teknocare 4250-00 – gives a new shine and protection to surfaces damaged by sun, rain and frost, however, it does not replace the traditional renovation of a damaged coating. Packaging: 0.5 L

More information on the principles of care and renovation of wooden windows is available in the download section.

Each window comes with fittings already properly regulated at the factory, any possible corrections are made by the assembly group during its mounting. The windows, at least during their initial service life, do not require any additional adjustment by the user. However, even when used in the correct manner, the window hardware may get misaligned over time, for example due to the natural expansion and contraction of window profiles in summer and winter. Large windows are the ones most exposed to the above, because they are subject to greater deformation under the influence of temperature changes, and moreover, their fittings are subject to a significant load resulting from the heavy weight of the sashes. Such windows need to be checked and adjusted more often. More instructions on the maintenance and adjustment of window and door frames are available in the download section.

As a manufacturer of window and door joinery, CDM Ltd. provides a warranty for the entire product (listed in points a and b), which includes a warranty for:

• wooden structure
• tightness of glazing units
• fittings (except for additional accessories)
• varnish coating
• aluminium cladding

a) Warranty for individual products in the case of authorized installation:

• wooden windows – 5 years
• wooden and aluminium windows – 5 years
• external doors – 2 years
• winter gardens – 1 year
• façade systems – 1 year

b) Warranty for non-authorized installation:

• wooden windows – 2 years
• wooden and aluminium windows – 2 years
• external doors – 2 years
• winter gardens – 1 year
• façade systems – 1 year

c) Warranty for other products, regardless of the type of installation:

• wooden window sills – 1 year
• shutters – 1 year
• additional accessories – diffusers, reed relays, door closers – 1 year
• other products offered by the seller – 1 year

Detailed information on the warranty conditions is available in the download section.